LOTRT : April 16

WOO it’s a glorious springtime Monday (here, at least) — let’s have something BRIGHT AND BOLD AF.

This is one of those “oh god it’s TOO MUCH, I’m scurred” looks that actually, if you keep everything else pretty minimal? It’s surprisingly wearable! At least I think so. YMMV. But let’s challenge ourselves to step out with shit we’re kinda uncomfortable in, yeah? YEAAAAH.


Okay first, I have some sad news : apparently the Wet N Wild eye primer has started irritating my g-d eyelids and I’m super pissed about it. So now I have even more work to do to figure out what the hell ingredient(s) is(are) problematic there. SO, I figured “why not face primer?” SO, I tried the only face primer I currently have a tube of, which is Becca Ever-Matte. It’s pretty okay under foundation — at least it’s free of ‘cones so it doesn’t break me out! — but otoh, its effects vis-a-vis mattifying and increasing makeup wear time aren’t really stellar for me, so I usually don’t bother. As eye primer, it seemed promising at first! It DID make powder shadows go on more smoothly and opaquely … but then they creased, and probably even sooner/worse than if I’d just applied to bare skin. Womp. THEN NEXT, I remembered I had a tiny decant sample of Hot Melt’s Pores Away primer, which I got from CameraReadyCosmetics, and forgot to check the ingredients on first and oh hey, it’s a bucket of cyclomethicone and nah. It’s also completely ineffective as eye primer, so double-nah. (It actually made my Tarte Sex Kitten stylo liner skip, crack, and feather. Which, that isn’t the greatest liner evarrrr, but it’s pretty damn good and it certainly never misbehaves like that. WOW.)

Anyway, you’ll want primer here. Then, all over browbone and down through crease, whatever nude matte works for your skin, lighter being better if you have one that’s kinda deeper than your skin and one that’s kinda lighter. I used ColourPop pressed “Hear Me Out.”

Then, with whatever’s easiest for you to draw neatly with, sketch out your wing shape. I used the Tarte liner because it usually yields a pretty crisp line and doesn’t migrate or do weird shit when I start layering over it. In my case, the wing starts as a long skinny line straight out from my outer corner. Then I do a line at the top of my mobile lid area just before it hits my crease. Pull that line out and join it up with the lower line to make your wing shape which will, of course, vary with your eye size / shape / preferences.

Once your outline is dry, fill in the gradient. Cream products are maybe best here for neatness, but use whatcha got. Regular powder shadow and a teeny dampened brush is prolly fine too! I used Inglot AMC gel liner in 67 (deep ultramarine) in the outer portions, then MAC Fluidline in Royal Wink (bright ultramarine) in the middle (I hate this shit, it is SO patchy), and then 3INA cream shadow in 304 (bright turquoise) on the inner third-ish. Then with a small shader brush, I scuffed some 3INA into the MAC and vice-versa to create a smoothish gradient blend there. Afterwards, I went back over my black outline to make it a little neater and more opaque.

Mascara I kept kinda low-key wispy (this is Lancome Definicils in a very light coat on top and heavier on bottom) — because with such strong lid colors going on the mascara’s not gonna show up a ton, and if it does, I don’t want it blocking the lid color. So, my preference here is +length and not so much on the “volume.”

On lower lid, just a scuff of matte taupe (ColourPop “Take The Lead). Oh, and after the whole top part was done and I cleaned up mascara and fallout etc, I further sharpened the wing with a little matte nude shadow (or cream concealer) on a flat synthetic brush, and then [caaaarefully] dusted more nude matte powder shadow on top of it bc my matte nude cream (NARS Porto Venere) is kinda streaky and shitty.

I REALLY LIKE THIS. It’s punchy as hell and B-R-I-G-H-T … but because all the color is confined to one stark geometric area (and most of the color is matte) it’s not too overwhelming. I paired it with a retroish matte-as-hell face with minimal cheek color and similarly punchy lipstick (Vasanti Gel Matte in “Endless Love”).

Does this look very current and now? Probably not! Is it 100% flattering? NOPE! Does the combination of matte skin and minimal blush etc and light dead-matte nude upper eye area make my face look weirdly flat? YEP! Do I care? I DO NOT. It is fun, and I like fun. PS my hair is like this because I had minimal options because it’s kinda dirty.

YOUR MAKEUP. TELL ME ALL ABOUT IT. Or your weekend! Or whatever! <3