OH HAPPY DAY, we’ve got a guest post LOTRT! From the inimitably fabulous DANA! Woooooo!
WHAT THAT IS:
After applying a matte highlight over the brow bone and down to the upper crease area (mine was from an old Guerlain palette), take a color close to your skin tone on a fluffy brush (Silk Creme*) and apply it in a gently patting, then windshield wiper motion directly in and above the crease as the initial transition color. Next take Creamsicle, a light yellow color, on a fluffy brush just below that first transition color, also in the crease, and gently start building up the intensity of that color until you’re satisfied.
The next steps are hard, but involve going back and forth between three tones of red: a lighter warm red, a mid-tone, and a deep burgundy (Hunts, Makeup Forever #M-846, Jacz in this example). For the first and lightest red I recommend going in with a brush similar to a Mac 217 (blending, but with stiffer bristles) and start first in the low crease, creating the smooth transition you want once you start bringing that color down onto the lid. Once you’ve applied an even layer of the lighter red, then go in with the mid-tone color, on a similarly shaped but clean brush, starting even lower on the crease and bringing it down (I would periodically go back with that first fluffy brush and blend the edges as needed).
Once the second layer is finished, use a deep brown cream pencil (Eyeko’s Me & Shadow Waterpoof Shadow Liner in Chocolate) smudged gently along the lash line and about half-way up the lid as a base to the deep burgundy shadow. Pack the burgundy color over the cream shadow first, gradually pulling it up to the crease, but never actually beyond the two lighter tones of red. Building depth between the three colors is (for me) slow work, as I’m continually applying, blending, blending more, and applying more eyeshadow again as needed.
Finally, going in the opposite direction (burgundy to lightest red, to light yellow), apply all of these products to the bottom lash line, making sure to start with a teeny tiny smudged line of the cream shadow.
And to finish the shadow portion, apply whatever sparkly highlighter speaks to you most (mine is from the LORAC Little Black Palette), first applied to the inner corner with a dry brush and then on that same brush dampened with Urban Decay All Nighter.
Tightline with your favorite black liner (mine is Charlotte Tilbury’s) and follow up it with plenty of coats of mascara on top and bottom lashes (I use a combo of the Estee Lauder primer (which is the only mascara primer worth owning in my opinion) and the Smashbox X-Rated Mascara (which is fine, but can get a little clumpy if I’m not careful)).
*If not otherwise specified, all the eyeshadows are from the Jaclyn Hill Morphe Palette.
And then because that’s clearly not Steampunk enough for me and my ridiculousness, I took a bunch of small gears I bought from Michael’s and used DUO lash glue to apply them all over my face (which I kinda don’t recommend because in some places I got randomly super irritated by the glue and ended up with gear shaped rashes. Not sexy.). Lipstick is the Lime Crime Velveteen Matte Lipstick in Wicked, which I am actually ashamed for owning.
But that’s it! Writing it all out makes it appear a little epically long, but while the “traditional” smokey eye does take me longer than other looks, with face and all the rest of it I didn’t spend more than an hour on the whole shebang. If you have a question or anything I can explain a bit better please don’t hesitate to let me know, because I’d love for these to be as helpful to you all as possible!
RED SMOKY : “yes” or “omg yesssss”? DISCUSS!